The Perfume Collector

The Perfume Collector is a novel by Kathleen Tessaro published in 2013. A work of historical fiction, the novel follows two separate but slightly overlapping timelines and utilizes several points of view.

The story opens in Paris in 1954. A woman named Eva d’Orsey has been informed by her doctor that her cirrhosis has gotten worse, and that she should stop drinking. At home she has several flashbacks to her past that cause her incredible anxiety; she drinks cognac to calm herself, making mysterious plans to wear her best suit and visit a travel agent.

In 1955, Grace Munroe is a young wife in Oxford. Her husband Roger has a good job, and she lives a comfortable life. Her husband is ambitious and Grace is happy with her financial status, but she’s bored and longs for work or something meaningful. Grace receives a letter from Paris informing her that Eva d’Orsey has died and left her property and an investment portfolio, but Grace is mystified because she has no idea who Eva d’Orsey is.



Grace and Roger attend a party, and Grace observes her husband clearly having an affair with a beautiful society woman. Grace is upset, certain that her inability to give Roger children is part of the problem. She returns to the letter she received and decides to travel to Paris to straighten out what must be a terrible mistake.

In Paris, Grace is met by Eva’s lawyer, Monsieur Tissot. He is handsome, charming, and French, and Grace is smitten. However, Tissot is businesslike and seems only interested in squaring everything away quickly. He pushes her to sell the apartment so he can simply give her a sizable inheritance, but Grace demands to see the apartment so she can investigate who Eva was. While searching the apartment, Grace discovers that Eva was a wealthy man’s mistress; the apartment was his gift to her. Grace also finds a business card for a perfume shop. She goes to the shop and meets Madame Zed, who admits to knowing Eva well and offers to tell Grace the story.

In 1927, Eva d’Orsey is fourteen years old and working as a maid in an expensive hotel in New York City. She is an orphan and very shy. Eva meets a guest named Mr. Lambert, a glamorous gambler who treats her kindly and plays cards with her. She develops a crush on the older man. One day Eva is cleaning perfumer Madame Zed’s room and pauses to smell one of her perfume bottles. Madame Zed catches Eva, but her outrage turns to affection and she takes Eva under her wing and introduces her to her assistant, Valmont.



Eva also meets a young woman named Miss Waverly. A pretty woman, Miss Waverly is a prostitute, though Eva does not initially understand this. Miss Waverly encourages Eva to seduce men to get what she wants. One night, Eva and Miss Waverly are spending time with one of Miss Waverly’s male friends, and Eva decides to use her advice. Things go terribly wrong, however, and Eva is raped by the man and becomes pregnant. Miss Waverly and the man flee the hotel.

Lambert returns to the hotel and Eva turns her new charm on him. He offers her a deal: He will assist her with her pregnancy if she becomes his partner and helps him cheat at cards. Eva agrees, but is devastated when his form of help is to force her to give the child up to his sister.

Eva works counting cards for Lambert and meets Valmont again. Valmont is taking over the perfume business from Madame Zed; inspired by Eva, he begins developing scents based on her. Valmont and Eva begin an affair and decide to open a perfumery together in Paris. They are quite successful thanks to Eva’s talent for marketing as well as her genius for scents—one of her formulas is particularly successful, but she refuses to give out the details. When World War II breaks out, Valmont is arrested for being a Jew and eventually dies in a concentration camp.



Eva takes her most successful perfume formulas and tracks down Lambert’s sister, whose husband is Jacques Hiver, owner of one of France’s largest cosmetics companies. Eva manages to get hired as her own daughter’s governess. She uses the skills learned from Miss Waverly to quickly become Hiver’s mistress, as well.

In 1955, Grace remembers her own childhood. Her parents died when she was eight, and she recalls her beloved nanny, who cared for her and helped her get through her father’s death. Madame Zed spells it out for Grace: Eva was her mother. When her father died, her grandfather, outraged at Eva’s presence, sent her away and told her to never attempt contact with Grace again.

Grace is approached by Jacques Hiver’s legitimate daughter, who wishes to purchase the apartment at a very high price. She gives Grace a box of small figurines that belonged to Eva as a peace offering. Roger also arrives in Paris. Having learned the extent of Grace’s new inheritance, he tries to reconcile with her, but Grace rebuffs him. She decides to stay in Paris and live in the apartment her mother left to her.



One day, as she’s going through Eva’s possessions with her friend, they investigate the figurines and discover the secret perfume formula inside.